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Posted by/r/DIY Overlord15 hours ago
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General Feedback/Getting Started Q&A Thread

This thread is for questions that are typically not permitted elsewhere on /r/DIY. Topics can include where you can purchase a product, what a product is called, how to get started on a project, a project recommendation, how to get started on a project, questions about the design or aesthetics of your project or miscellaneous questions in between. There ar


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I am in the process of spraying my walls with Behr waterproofing. underneath the watermarks is green (what I think used to be the color of the painted masonry) but when I chip away at the cinder blocks it's all dark black and very brittle.

What am I looking at here? House was built in 1947, so the cinder blocks / masonry are a good 70 years old.


I know this has been discussed before, but I have a nasty sewer gas smell in my apt kitchen. It was missing a u-trap/p-trap. My landlord did her best to install one. Can anyone tell me if this is good enough to work? I still get the smell, so I'm not sure if it's the trap or it's coming from somewhere else in the kitchen. I have a floor drain but I've taped it off.

Pic is here:


So I never put anything on my apartment walls since I didn't want to have to fill in any holes etc.
Every door in the apartment has some kind of built-in "wall bumper" for the doorknob. Example:
Unless this is where I was supposed to glue my own bumper? Seems weird that I would have to install my own bumper when apartments really prefer you to not make any adjustments or holes on walls. So I always assumed this was a built-in bumper for the wall because what kind of apartment doesn't have door bumpers? Seems like you're asking for door knob damage without it.

The front door's bumper was damaged one day when the wind caught my door and blew it open really, really hard:
The wind was so strong that day (and the outside corrider also creates a wind tunnel effect) that the door knob was ripped out of my hand and the door knob hit the wall hard.

Is there any way to repair this? I can't just put joint compound over it since it's an actual molding on the wall that sticks out. Or is this something the apartment will fix without charging me if it is a door bumper and it failed to stop the door because of the wind?


Hey guys what is the most optimal tool for pulling long staples out from hardwood flooring? I'm trying to find the most optimal way to do it because I have thousands to pull! Fence pliers did not work too well on account the pointy tip was too thick get in and roll them out and when i tried the gripping/cutting part it broke the staples.

I'm thinking round nose vice grips or a car gasket puller?



What the fuck, paint?

So we are attempting to paint the nursery and had some big shelves to move. DH put drywall tape over the large wall anchor holes and then spackled and sanded.

Today we went to paint and noticed it was bubbling and chipping on the first coat. Weird, but maybe the second coat would recitfy.

Went to do the second coat and the paint literally peeled off while rolling.

  1. Wtf is happening?
  2. How do we fix this?



Hey all, happy to see that this reddit is help request friendly cuz I'm in a bit of a situation. I was in the process of attaching my tv mount to the wall in my bedroom when I hit something that I can't drill past. I went into a bit of a drilling frenzy trying to find the place where the undrillable object ended, but to no avail. Now I'm concerned that I may have made too many holes too close to each other, but I tried googling what the minimum distance between drywall anchors should be and found a bunch of conflicting info, so I'm not sure.

So my questions are: 1. Any idea what could be behind the wall and what I should do about it? 2. Did I fuck the wall up too bad to handle holding a 44" 25lb tv?


General info: I drilled other areas of the wall with no issue The undrillable object is about 1.5" into the wall The area in question spans 4 holes across 9.5".

Let me know what other info you might need to help me figure out this problem. I'm happy to provide more photos or details where I can.

Thanks in advance!


The company I hired for an assessment is a highly rated one in my area (4.8 stars with many reviews). It kind of pissed me off that they were trying to take me for a ride for something that they themselves should have been able to find immediately. They claimed they could not locate the source of the leak and had to replace everything except for the furnace itself.

I was able to find the help I needed online with various websites and YouTube tutorials. As it turns out, the culprit was the easiest and most obvious fix, the relief valve itself. The hardest part of the DIY fix other than spending hours diagnosing the problem was simply trying to unscrew the old relief valve in a confined space. Luckily, my wife has a plumber's pipe which did wonders. Ended up buying a new relief valve, a close nipple, and Teflon tape for a little over $30 at Lowe's.

I am pretty pissed that they tried to screw us out so badly. I wonder how many others just simply went along and paid what amounts to a 100x markup for such an easy fix. It wouldn't have taken me all that time to diagnose the issue had I been able to find something to flow test the old relief valve with safely.

A short summary of what I did:

  • Noticed leaking from relief valve after furnace was inactive

  • Called for an assessment immediately

  • Wanted to flow test the relief valve but I couldn't get it off at the time, plus I hilariously do not have any hoses at the house.

  • Checked aquastat, noted pressure and temp over time, checked all connections for leaks -> Big clue was that the pressure and temp tracked the normal curve during operation

  • Flushed entire system including radiators -> leak slowed down

  • Checked expansion tank (I originally thought this was the problem), verified it was working properly by feeling the difference between warm liquid and air

  • Replaced Teflon tape around relief valve

  • Restarted everything -> leaking lessened but increased over time, however the pressure curve was completely normal

  • Realized it was likely the relief valve and went to Lowes

  • Replaced the valve and monitored for 24 hours so far

No leaks, pressure is normal, radiators operating normally and I have heat again after a string of mid-to-low 30 degree nights.


Hi all. Long time lurker, first time poster. I've tried to do a search to see if this question has been covered, but havent had much luck.

My partner and I have bought a flatpack kitchen from IKEA, which we plan on installing ourselves. In an attempt to keep costs low, we also removed the old kitchen ourselves. We have no intentions of removing the flooring at this rate. The cutout for the current flooring fits the old kitchen, with a cabinet depth of 400mm, while our new kitchen cabinet depth is 600mm. My question is if we should shim the exposed concrete, before we install the new kitchen so that it is the same level as the current flooring, or we should cut out parts of the floor to fit the new cabinets in? I need to figure out how to attach a photo on mobile, which will hopefully demonstrate my question a little better.

By the way, located in Sydney, Australia.

Edit: bottom right is where we have stripped the cabinet, exposing the bare concrete floor. Hope this helps.



Apologies for a banal question, google doesn't immediately reveal any obvious advice here.

Essentially, I'm replacing an ancient patio and path with ~50 600 x 600 black granite slabs. As you can imagine, black granite isn't the cheapest, but I've found a source that's about two thirds of the usual price.

However, the difference is rather than the usual 25mm thickness, these are only 20mm thick. My question here is will there be a big difference in the fragility of these slabs, obviously thicker is generally better, but are these significantly more likely to crack, etc. than the 25mm ones, or should the difference be fairly negligible as long as I'm careful to lay with even support?

(I should mention in terms of load these would be expected to bear that these should only even see foot traffic or at most a plant pot sitting on one or two).


1960' house (no asbestos) Working in 4 x 4 squares, spraying 1 - 2 coats of water and waiting for about 5-10 min. Getting this patches that reveal a green surface that feels like sheetrock. Am I scrapping to deep? If so, do I repair with putty or can I sand this down? Any advice (tools, methods) would be appreciated.

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